Where do I start? All of my projects are the result of so many different pieces of inspiration coming together, I’m not sure how to tell the story behind my Sirius Star Pillow.
To start, I’ve had sea creatures on the brain for a while. First the jellyfish, then the ball shark, and then a family trip to Monterey Bay Aquarium. Visions of crochet octopus and manta rays and humpback whales swim through my head all the time. There’s also starfish and sand dollars. Maybe not so much the sea cucumbers though, sorry!
Then there’s all this gorgeous We Are Knitters Fabric Yarn that I have the opportunity to work with! Fabric yarn is a lot stiffer and chunkier than acrylic yarn, so I figured I’d make something that can really keep its shape. There’s purses and bags and rugs to be made, but as usual, I wanted to do something a little different. Don’t I always?
Then came the moment of inspiration, when I was surfing Instagram and found these beautiful pillows by LadyMaryan. Everything sort of clicked into place – a star pillow, made from fabric yarn. It’ll be big because fabric yarn is chunky, and it’ll be fabulous because fabric yarn is cool to the touch, so this pillow has TWO “cool sides of the pillow”! (Cue up The Family Guy!)
LadyMaryan provides instructions and some wonderfully hand-drawn charts to show how she makes her pillows. I translated her page in Google and I think lost quite a bit in translation, but that’s ok. When she explained that each round increases by 10 stitches, everything made sense in my head. I used that basic math to come up with my star and don’t actually follow the rest of the stitch counts she uses.
The pillow works up pretty quickly with the fabric yarn, but it is quite the workout! I took breaks to rest my wrist, and to watch TV. (Currently binging on NCIS…) I made one star using We Are Knitter Fabric Yarn in Pink, and for that star, I worked 6 rounds for the center. When I started the second star using the hot pink yarn, I realized it was thicker than the Pink skein, so in order for the stars to match in size, I only worked 5 rounds for the center and adjusted the rest of the pattern to match.
Fabric yarn is made from recycled cut-offs from tshirts, so there’s differences in colors and texture and thickness are to be expected – it’s just what’s available from the warehouse. How cool that we’re reusing and repurposing though, right? So just be aware that for the pattern listed below, I followed it to a tee for one side, but worked one round less for the other side.
Another characteristic of fabric yarn is that unlike acrylic yarns, it’s not made from several strands twisted together. It’s really easy to find the right loops to work through, but it also means that there’s no strands to sort of expand and fill in the loose spaces between stitches. Since I was making something that needed to be stuffed, I was afraid that my stuffing would come out of all those big gaps between these big chunky stitches. To solve this problem, I cut out star shapes from some quilt batting I had laying around, layered that in between the two stars, and then added stuffing between the two layers of quilt batting. The inner layers prevent the loose stuffing from coming out. I realized afterwards that white felt would have worked even better. If you’re using dark colored yarn, dark felt may work the best for you.
So, beyond adjusting to the quirks and beauty of fabric yarn, this was a simple project! And I named it the Sirius Star Pillow because Sirius is the brightest star in the sky. And it’s easier to spell than Betelgeuse. Annnd, who can resist the “sirius(ly)” punny potential?!
4 balls of We Are Knitters Fabric Yarn (2 balls of each color)
Size N* (9mm) crochet hook
2 pieces of felt or quilt batting
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain stitch
dc – double crochet
Because of the variability of thickness in fabric yarn, you may work more or less rounds so that both sides of the star matches in size. If you’re using the same yarn for both sides, you won’t have this problem.
The ch 3 at the beginning of each round or row counts as a dc stitch.
Work the last stitch of each round into the same stitch as the ch 3. It’s the equivalent of “work 2 st into the next st”.
Pulling the magic circle closed might be slightly difficult, but it will close if you pull hard enough.
As you work the center rounds, the piece may curl like you’re making a basket. The fabric yarn is stretchy, so you can easily stretch it flat after each round.
Each star point is worked the same way, starting with a ch 3 as the first stitch, then worked in decreasing rows.
Use batting or felt in between the pillows to prevent polyfill stuffing from leaking out.
When you hold the two stars together, the edge shows 4 loops. The joining edge is worked through the 2 inner loops.
Crochet Sirius Star Pillow Instructions
Round 1: Start with a magic circle. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 9 more dc into magic circle. Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch. Pull magic circle closed.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 2 dc in next st. Continue to work 2 dc in each st around. Work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.
Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next st, work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.
Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next 2 st, work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.
Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next 3 st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next 4 st, work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch.
Round 6: Ch 3 (counts as first st). [Work 1 dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in next st.] 9 times. Work 1 dc in next 4 st, work 1 dc in last st (same st as beginning ch 3). Join with sl st to 3rd starting ch. Do not cut yarn.
Row 1: From the end of Round 5, ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 11 st. Turn.
Row 2: Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 9 st. Turn.
Row 3: Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 7 st. Turn.
Row 4: Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 5 st. Turn.
Row 5: Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 3 st. Turn.
Row 6: Sl st into 2nd st from hook. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in same st as ch 3. Work 1 dc next st. Cut yarn and fasten off.
Second (and subsequent) points
Row 1: Work a standing sl st (shown in picture below) into the next stitch to the left of the previous point. Ch 3 (counts as first st). Work 1 dc in next 11 st. Turn.
Place the two stars and batting together in order: star, batting, batting, star, with the front sides of the star facing out. Starting at any stitch, work 1 standing sl st, working through the inner two loops of each stitch.
Work 1 sl st in each st around. Stop to stuff the pillow before joining the last point, adding the stuffing between the two layers of batting.
more info: 1dogwoof.com